We’re lucky enough at TACB to get some amazing industry guests into the College to share their expertise. We recently had the pleasure of hosting a pinup workshop with Dianne Murphy, followed by a photoshoot that captured the incredible work of our students.
Today we’re sharing Dianne’s rundown of the perfect pinup look!
Subtle is key here. Keep it as light as possible, make-up of the period wasn’t a heavy coverage. However, you do want enough coverage to look clean if it’s a photoshoot! A light contour puts dimension back into the face.
Dianne recommends bring the chin contour all the way to behind the ear to avoid any stark finish line. Highlight the face with a matte light shade first and then add a small amount of shimmer only on the top of the cheekbone and the cupids bow. This is meant to remain a matte look. Add a rosy/pink blush to the apples of the cheek and your base is complete!
Brows should be natural, according to true vintage style. However, for photography it’s important to give them reasonable definition. You can accentuate the arch if desired. Shadow is quite natural; a simple light shade to set over the whole lid is followed by a medium brown to contour and shape the eye. Take a slightly darker brown to deepen the definition in the crease, being careful not to blend too much. A black winged liner is iconic for pinup make-up. Dianne used MAC’s Black Tracks gel liner. A white pencil on the water opens the eye and makes it pop.
Dianne also recommends the ‘Marilyn Monroe’ technique. You simply line your bottom lashes with a medium brown shade, to mimic the shadow of your lashes. This accentuates the eyes further and adds a lovely feminine flourish to the make-up.
A bold lip is another iconic aspect of pinup makeup. Line first and colour in the entire lip with a pencil. This works both as a primer for the lip and a base colour for the lipstick you put over the top. Apply your lipstick with a lip brush to keep a crisp, clean line.
Pinup hair takes some time to prep but is very quick to style. Set in hot rollers before starting your make-up. Setting is crucial and Dianne recommends using ‘White Sands’ which acts as a thermal protector, setting spray and a finishing spray in one bottle! Stick to using the medium and small sized hot rollers and be sure to keep the curler sitting as vertical as possible to the head. This will ensure maximum volume.
Once make-up is finished and hair curlers have cooled and set, remove the rollers. Brush through the curls and manipulate them into a ‘pinup’ wave. When it comes to styling them, it’s best to have researched your model’s hair length to find a suitable pinup style. Should you need to tease the hair, Dianne suggests teasing down towards the scalp only, rather than back and forward against the hair. It’s important to play around with it until it sits correctly. Keep persevering and work with the curls you have created to achieve your style.
Our students had such an amazing time with Dianne in her workshop; check out the gorgeous results from the photoshoot here.